Regardless of if you are a lover of Malbec you’d be hard pushed not to enjoy some wine tasting in Mendoza! My day started with wine for breakfast at around 9.30am – what a way to start a holiday!
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Anonymous
Mendoza was founded in 1561 with a very small native population. It has a strategic position at the crossing from two main roads in Argentina, from North to South and across from Buenos Aires to Chile. The Spanish wanted access to the resources such as cereals they distributed the lands and administered the area.
Mendoza is in the middle of the desert so a complex water distribution system had to be created for home distribution and irrigation of plants and crops. Channels feed from the river to a huge canal network. Different areas get water access on different days. During Winter this might be once every 2 weeks or once a month; whilst in Summer its more like once a week. The system is very heavily regulated and if you take more water than your entitlement you can be fined or go to jail.
Until the 1990’s Mendoza produced 70% of the countries olive oil, until the Government got involved to support some of the poorer areas in the North. Mendoza is still considered to have the best quality olive oil, I can verify that it is delicious!
Unlike some other wine producing countries the best quality vines are not always kept back for the country to enjoy as some of the locals can’t afford it, and wine from Mendoza has such a good reputation around the world.
I visited two local vinyards, details below but the choice is plentiful. There are multiple options for booking tours to visit several vinyards in a day or afternoon. You can also just turn up for a tour at many of them, or hire bikes and cycle between some of them.
Kaiken
My favourite vinyard and where the Religion of Malbec was born!
The story goes that the owner was involved in a car crash and believed he was dying. He saw an angel and believes he is still alive because of her. This was nearby to the vineyard.
On site there is an angel cellar 4 metres underground. You have to ring the chimes as you enter and it’s believed positive energy attracts positive energy.
In the room where the barrels of Malbec are stored to mature there are hymns playing – like in a church. It’s monks chanting thanks, which creates a unique atmosphere. The noise makes small vibrations, causing gentle movements inside the barrels. The particles are constantly moving which is what makes the Malbec so smooth and velvety.
It genuinely felt like a special place, the experience was almost like visiting a church whilst wandering around the vineyard and seeing how they produce the wine. Hence the religion of Malbec was born!
As expected Kaiken produce a beautiful Malbec with intense colour and taste. They also produce a number of other delicious wines, a good Cabernet franc and a Merlot blend. The tannin’s are soft and a pleasure on the palate! The mix of blends vary each year depending on the crops, weather, soils and everything that impacts taste and production.
They also have some interesting wine labels!
Alta Vista wines
Alta Vista meaning high view or best view. It was first formed by Spanish users in the late 1890s. In time the owners needed to return to Spain so abandoned the vineyard which was later found by a French owner. Abandoned and destroyed they worked hard to restore the plot. Their speciality was champagne and agriculture. They wanted to take 7 different vines and combine to form a specialist production.
Different levels above sea and varying degrees of sun and radiation create a plethora of different vines and grapes. Salt and calcium levels in the soil also have an impact. El Niño has further complicated the process.
Alta Vista use Galileo spheres which reduces the need for manual intervention. The patent for the spheres has since been sold to European vineyards.
A lot of delicious reds are produced here, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc and Pinot Noir. The reds are stored for 18-24 months. During the storing process they are tasted once a month which determines what the mix is for the blended wines.
White wine production is smaller, some Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and the local Torrentes which is predominantly sold locally. Torrentes means the liar due to it smelling sweet like fruit but with a drier taste.
Sparkling wine is also produced on site. The process involves having the bottles pointing downwards for 20 months. They are rotated one quarter of a turn three times a week during that time to ensure movement of the yeast sediment which forms at the bottom of the bottle.
There are many more vineyards in Mendoza to choose from and I can’t recommend it as a place to visit highly enough.
There is also plenty more to see and do whilst visiting. One of my favourites being the Spanish square. Wherever you wonder through town there are local wine shops selling great quality wine at very cheap prices.
Cafayate
Cafayete is another place further north in Argentina with a breath of choice of vineyards. The wines taste very different due to the varying climates and geology. Cafayete is not far from Salta which is around 1800m above sea level, whereas Mendoza sits approximately 1200m above sea level. The climate is warmer in Cafayete with somewhere in the region of 340 days of sun a year. Mendoza is more humid with rain and snow during winter so different flavours, textures and tannins are produced.
A couple of contrasting vineyards to try: Bodega El Porvenir, in the 1890s was a small family run vineyard. It has since been bought and now produces high end wine but has that family run feel.
Piattelli Vineyard is a much larger more industrial and less personal affair. Though interesting to see the scale with a large choice of wines available, in a picturesque setting.
Either way, you just can’t fail to find some outstanding wines throughout Argentina!
On a final note here’s a delicious bottle I paid a little over 2 dollars for in Salta and was very good – I picked it for the label and it was thoroughly enjoyable!