My Solo Footprints

Samarkand – The Jewel of the Silk Road

Few cities on Earth capture the imagination quite like Samarkand — the fabled oasis at the heart of the Silk Road. Once the capital of empires and a beacon of Islamic culture, today it remains one of the most spectacular and historically rich cities in the world.

Known as the Cultural Capital of the Islamic World, Samarkand is a city where turquoise domes shimmer under the desert sun, and every stone tells a story that spans millennia.

A City Steeped in History

Located in southeastern Uzbekistan, Samarkand has a population of around one million, though the surrounding region is home to nearly five million people. It’s one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia, with roots stretching back almost 3,000 years.

Between 1924 and 1930, Samarkand was the capital of Uzbekistan, before the Soviet government transferred the title to Tashkent. Yet, even without the political power, Samarkand has always been the spiritual heart of the nation.

Throughout history, it has seen conquerors, scholars, and poets pass through its gates. The city was once part of the vast Mongol Empire, when Genghis Khan’s armies swept through Central Asia, bringing destruction that led to what many describe as the first collapse of Islamic culture in the region.

But out of that devastation rose a new dawn.

Life begins at the end of your comfort zone

Neale Donald Walsch

The Renaissance of Islam – Amir Temur’s Legacy

In the 14th century, Amir Temur (Tamerlane) transformed Samarkand into the glittering capital of his vast empire, which stretched from Mongolia to India and the Middle East. At its height, his forces numbered over one million troops, surpassing even Genghis Khan’s armies.

Temur’s reign marked what many call the second renaissance of Islamic culture. Under his rule, art, architecture, and science flourished. His mausoleum, the Gur-e-Amir, is one of the city’s most iconic sites — a masterpiece of Persian and Islamic design.

Legend has it that during the Soviet era, Stalin ordered Temur’s tomb to be opened, spending several million roubles to examine the remains of the great conqueror and his wife. But the excavation, which took place just before the Nazi invasion of the Soviet Union, was followed almost immediately by disaster — prompting locals to believe that Temur’s spirit had cursed those who disturbed his rest. His bones were later reburied in Samarkand, restoring peace to his tomb.

Interestingly, Temur’s grandson, Babur, went on to found the Mughal Empire in India, establishing dynasties that would later build landmarks like the Taj Mahal in Agra — an enduring echo of Samarkand’s influence far beyond its borders.

Architectural Wonders and Sacred Spaces

The Registan

No place captures Samarkand’s soul like the Registan, the city’s central square and perhaps the most beautiful in Central Asia. Once an ancient university complex where students studied theology, mathematics, and astronomy, today it stands as a breathtaking ensemble of three madrasahs.

Despite its grandeur, there’s a melancholy air to the Registan — a reminder of the passage of time. Many visitors come here to take wedding photos, framed by the intricate tilework and golden mosaics that have witnessed centuries of history.

Shah-i-Zinda

A few minutes away lies Shah-i-Zinda, a stunning necropolis known as “The Living King.” Climb the narrow staircase and you’ll find yourself surrounded by an avenue of mausoleums adorned with the most intricate blue tiles in the world. It’s one of Samarkand’s most sacred and atmospheric sites.

The Ulugh Beg Observatory

High on a hill overlooking the city stands the Ulugh Beg Observatory, built in the 15th century by Amir Temur’s grandson, Ulugh Beg — one of history’s greatest astronomers. He charted the stars with astonishing precision, centuries before telescopes as we know them existed. Today, a statue of Ulugh Beg greets visitors climbing the steps to the observatory and its museum, where you can learn about his groundbreaking work in astronomy.

Bibi-Khanym Mosque

Though a little weathered, this once-majestic mosque — built by Temur in honor of his beloved wife — remains one of Samarkand’s most striking landmarks. Its scale and intricate design are a testament to the city’s ambition and grandeur during its golden age.

Markets and Local Life

Wander through Siab Bazaar, where the air is rich with the scent of dried fruit, nuts, and freshly baked bread. This is the beating heart of daily life in Samarkand — lively, colorful, and filled with friendly faces.

Nearby, you’ll find family-run bakeries and restaurants like Boulevard, a great spot for dinner with a glass of Uzbek wine (beer is limited). Don’t miss the desserts — sweet, nutty, and as rich as the city’s history itself.

I’ve wanted to visit Samarkand for years and it did not disappoint! From here a little more cycling on our way to Bukhara via the desert!

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Tashkent – Journey through Uzbekistan – From Silk road cities to Desert Sky

An interesting and welcoming blend of old and new, Tashkent is the largest city in Central Asia and the fascinating capital of Uzbekistan. It’s a place where gleaming modern towers meet the architectural elegance of the Islamic world, where echoes of the Soviet era still linger beside traditional bazaars and mud-walled houses. You could spend days here exploring the contrasts — and still find more to uncover.

Often referred to as “The Gateway to Uzbekistan,” Tashkent makes a perfect starting point for travellers continuing along the ancient Silk Road to Samarkand and Bukhara. It’s a city that manages to feel both cosmopolitan and deeply rooted in its past — a rare balance that makes every street corner feel like a story.

A City of Layers and Legends

Tashkent’s history stretches back to at least the 2nd century BC — possibly even earlier. Over the centuries, it’s been known by many names, but its current name, Tashkent, meaning “Stone Village” in Uzbek, first appeared in the 11th century. Despite invasions, earthquakes, and reinventions, the city’s resilient spirit endures.

On April 26, 1966, a massive earthquake destroyed much of Tashkent. But the city rose again — rebuilt in a modern Soviet style, with broad boulevards, spacious parks, and monumental public buildings. Today, this post-earthquake architecture sits side by side with ancient mosques, shimmering new glass towers, and bustling local markets.

To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.

Mark Twain

Modern Vibes and Local Charm

Tashkent is a modern, affordable city with efficient public transport and amazing food. English, Uzbek, and Russian are widely spoken, and the city’s population represents nearly every ethnic group from across Central Asia — plus Russians, Arabs, and more. Despite its diversity, Tashkent is proudly multicultural and welcoming, with no discrimination based on race or religion.

The city has even introduced a touch of fantasy: Magic City, opened in 2022, is a colorful world of shops, attractions, and entertainment perfect for families and children.

The climate – a very dry heat, minimal humidity, and an impressive 300 sunny days a year. You’ll notice most cars here are white — not a fashion choice, but a practical one, as white helps reflect the sun’s heat.

Cultural Highlights

Tashkent is full of landmarks, museums, and monuments that tell the story of its past and present. A few personal highlights include:

Jami Mosque

Dating back to the 17th century, the Jami (Friday) Mosque is one of Tashkent’s architectural treasures. Its elegant green marble was sourced from India and Italy, and its 60-meter minarets dominate the skyline.

The World’s Oldest Quran

Housed in the Hast Imam Complex, this sacred manuscript is believed to be around 1,400 years old and is one of the most important Islamic relics in Central Asia.

WWII Monument

A striking and emotional memorial dedicated to the mothers left behind during the war. The eternal flame burns in honor of those who lost their lives — much like lighting a candle in a church.

Independence Square

The heart of modern Tashkent, filled with statues, fountains, and a sense of pride. Uzbekistan declared its independence on August 31, 1991, and the square’s Arch of Goodwill, built in 2010, celebrates this freedom. The stork motif on the arch symbolizes family, peace, and unity — values deeply cherished in Uzbek culture.

Bridge of Five Districts

A symbolic structure connecting Tashkent’s five districts, representing unity across the city’s diverse neighborhoods.

The State Circus

Operating since 1913, Tashkent’s Circus continues to charm locals and visitors alike, with shows every day featuring performers from across the region.

Food & Local Flavor

No trip to Uzbekistan is complete without sampling plov, the national dish. Every region has its own variation, but the Tashkent version — rich with tender meat, carrots, and fragrant rice — is especially beloved.

For a delicious meal in a welcoming atmosphere, head to Caravan, a local favorite offering authentic Uzbek dishes in a cozy setting.

A City That Shines

With its sun-soaked days, welcoming locals, and perfect balance of old and new, Tashkent is a city that invites exploration and rewards curiosity. It’s a multicultural capital with a timeless soul — and whether you come for the food, the history, or the atmosphere, you’ll leave with memories as bright as the Uzbek sun.

Tashkent – a city evolving – visit now whilst it still has unspoilt charm! From Tashkent I headed off on a journey across the country for some outstanding but tough cycling and more site-seeing! Follow my journey from Silk Road to Desert Sky in my following posts.

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Cycling in South Korea

Cycle paths in South Korea are generally excellent with a fantastic route from Seoul to Busan. Whilst you may come across the odd hole on for example some of the bridge paths covered with a random cone in the middle of the path to prevent accidents.. the general condition is outstanding with all paths linking up and allowing you to avoid most busy main roads. And with minimal pot holes, regular clean public toilets and water fountains – it really puts the UK to shame!

Beautiful Cosmos en route cycling from Seoul to Yangpyeong

‘As a kid I had a dream – I wanted to own my own bicycle. When I got a bike I must have been the happiest boy in Liverpool, maybe the world. I lived for that bike. Most kids left their bike in the backyard at night. Not me. I insisted on taking mine indoors and the first night I even kept it in my bed. ‘

– John Lennon

I travelled in October when it’s not supposed to rain.. we had some heavy rain on a few days, some lovely sunny weather too – some hot some less so depending on location the day! Great timing for seeing the Autum leaves! I used a hybrid bike and it was fine for the terrain. I went with Saddle Skeddadle a cycling travel company based in the UK. They use a local partner called Max Adventures which provided our bikes, moved our bags, guided us, kept us safe and most importantly offered us snacks and water refills at every stop!

I’d thoroughly recommend South Korea as a travel destination. It has some interesting places to visit, some great scenery, fascinating history and some delicious food. Some food I was less enamoured with.. a lot of it can be very bland or very spicy with not much in between! But I had some amazing seafood, delicious soups and stews and some exquisute gyozas!

We also stopped at some wonderful coffee shops along the way, a traditional paper making company, a traditional cultural village and many other great places. We also managed to hit the local apple festival in Mungyeong Saejae! A few of the towns we stopped in were spa towns providing soft water in the hotels to make your skin and hair feel amazing. As well as an opportunity to visit the traditonal Onsen with the locals – definitely an experience!

The most extravagant coffee shop I’ve ever visited!

One thing to be aware of in the hotels is the size of the bath towel – more like a hand towel! Except in the larger Western chains. I stayed in a combination of local and Western hotels, and one traditional Ryoken with the mattress on the floor in a beautiful old traditional house.

Bath towels size, using my hand for scale – I have small hands! Perfect size when you’ve been cycling all day! 😂

Shopping in Seoul is brilliant for their fashion forward modern look with shapes driven in part by the popularity of K-Pop. Korean beauty is also very sought after, get your fix of collagen masks, snail cream and other beauty products in Myeongdong. If you take your passport you can claim the tax back from larger purchases. There are mulitple kiosks in the airport to ensure this is easy to do. Busan also has some great shopping districts though Seoul is bigger with more choice. Some of the smaller towns we stayed in offer some great local souvenirs and gifts.

Local beer is readily available in most bars and restaurants. As is Soju, the Korea’s national and most popular drink. Its a clear, distilled spirit usually made from rice, wheat or barley. It’s similar to vodka though about half the strength and is usally consumed neat. Wine however, my favourite, is a bit more difficult to come by. I tended to get my wine fix from the 7/11 or whichever local convenience stores were near my hotels / restaurants such as GS45 or CU. I usually found a reasonable selection of South American reds!

A popular pastime is dressing up with your friends in a Photo Booth! Much like you get at many weddings or events with a selection of funny glasses, hats and props! We used one in a museum but saw plenty around some of the towns we visited near the shops and restaurants where people go as an evening activity.

My route is drawn out on the below map. Stops were Seoul, Yangpyeong, Angsung, Suanbo, Mungyeong Saejae, Andong, Cheongsong, Pohang, Gyeongju, Busan.

Some of my highlight images below.

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Things to do during summer Tromsø

Work, travel, save, repeat

If the Arctic circle is on your bucket list Tromsø is the best place to experience all it has to offer.

Despite its rugged landscapes and unapologetic weather northern Norway draws a constant stream of intrepid travellers during both the summer and winter months. Both seasons offer much to see.

July’s midnight sun is a spectacular though at times disconcerting experience! December offers one of the most captivating destinations to experience the colourful and auroras dancing in the sky.

E-bike Tour

I used Tromsø Outdoor who I thoroughly recommend. A 3 hour guided ebike tour was around £94 and worth every penny. Lucas our guide was excellent and shared lots of information and local knowledge during the tour where we got to cover a lot of Tromsø and take in some highlights. He even brought snacks and warm Ribena – not that we needed it we were lucky enough to experience one of Tromsø’s warmest days! Hanging out north of the Arctic circle and still managing to wear shorts and a vest! Be prepared though like the rest of Norway the weather can change quickly and you can experience all seasons in one day!

http://tromsooutdoor.no

Troll museum

An impressive and interactive museum for adults and children alike! The only troll museum in Norway created using modern augmented reality technology. A great little museum to get acquainted with Norwegian fairy tales and legends. It will take around an hour depending on how long you spend in some areas and entrance for adults is around £13.

http://trollmuseum.no

Cable car – Fjellheisen

Worth the effort on a clear day of getting over the bridge to get the cable car. Its gondolas offer panoramic views of Tromsø and the fjords from Storsteinen mountain. Unfortunately the day I intended to do it you couldn’t see the top through the clouds and fog so I did some of the lower hikes which still provided a great view over Tromso.

Floating sauna

If you’re after a very fresh swim between your heated sauna visits this is the place to go. I have to say whilst it was pretty cold in the sea as you’d expect North of the Arctic Circle – my body and skin felt amazing after my sauna trip outing and if you can fit in a floating sauna whilst in Norway do it!

Link below, select English and select Tromsø

http://pust.io

Mack Brewery

The northernmost brewery in the world and the oldest pub in Tromsø, offering choice of around 150 different beers. Mack’s pub is a cool place to hangout and a must visit place whilst visiting Tromsø! And it would be rude not to try some Arctic beer!

http://mack.no

Restaurants

If you like sushi or Japanese food I would thoroughly recommend Hibana. Extremely fresh delicious food and excellent service. A little difficult to find as once you find the doorway it’s not immediately obvious you need to head up the first flight of stairs. Link below:

http://hibana.no

Walter & Leonard has some great local dishes if you’re after fresh fish or the best reindeer steak in town! a lovely restaurant with a great atmosphere and a refreshing choice of wine! Link below:

http://walterogleonard.no

On a final note..

Firstly if you do stay In Tromsø take earplugs for the seagulls!

My summer tour of Norway taking in Oslo, Trondheim, Svolvær and Tromsø has been fantastic! Beautiful, stunning, outstanding – there aren’t enough suitable adjectives to describe it!

Definitely one of the few places I would like to revisit! And next time I will take in Bergen too!

Svolvær in the stunning Lofoten Islands Norway

This is the place that dreams are made of! Everywhere you look is a stunning, outstanding, breathtaking view.

Extending out into the ocean north of Bodø a chain of jagged peaks that make up the Lofoten Islands stretching some 118 miles.

This is a paradise of adventures with an abundance of boat trips, hiking trails and more. Definitely one of the top destinations in Norway.

Collect moments, not things

The sea here is remarkably clear and blue, you’d think you are on a remote Caribbean island rather than Northern Norway!

Getting there

I took a ferry from Bodø it took around 3.5 hours. You can also fly from other parts of Norway, or drive as bridges cross all of the islands to make it accessible.

Boat trips

The highlight of my stay was the RIB (rigid inflatable boat) boat tour. I used XXLofoten – link below:

http://xxlofoten.no

There are multiple tour companies along the front but I found this one to be very reliable, knowledgeable and offered great tours great guides. They also offer a discount system the more tours you book.

The RIB boat was a two hour tour around the fjords taking in some key sites such as Trollfjord and spending some time watching sea eagles.

You can leave your bags behind in the office and just take a phone or camera with you. Warm / waterproof outfits are provided along with goggles so you can enjoy the trip wherever the weather!

Some of the many other trips were sea kayaking – lots of fun even if I wasn’t very good at it!

And a traditional fishing tour if that’s something you’re interested in, amongst many others.

Hiking

There are multiple hiking options in Svolvaer, I’ll just highlight a couple of key ones.

Probably the most famous is Djevelporten (Devil’s Gate) with its famous views. Directly above a gorge between two peaks lies a spectacular rock formation – a perfect photo stop! It a steep and breezy ascent, with some scrambling. Ropes and chains have been installed at the steeper points. Once you reach the top the views of Svolvaer and the Norweigan Sea are fantastic! Ideally best to be done on clear, dry days. With the rain it can become muddy and the rocks slippery.

Floya is Svolvaer’s local mountain and has become famous for the Sherpa stairs going almost all the way up the mountain side. Walking up the stairs is rewarding for the fantastic views. The stairs are steep and uneven in places but a relatively straightforward walk with multiple places to stop, rest and take in the views. Its about a 2 hour 1.5 km walk each way, ascending 590m above sea level. Though you can do as much or as little as you like and still get rewarding views.

You can also continue up to the gorge between Frosken and Floya though the terrain on this route is steep and craggy.

Trollfjord

Trollfjord in the Lofoten archipelago has a rich history and has inspired both writers and artists over the years. Only 100m wide at its narrowest point and only accessible by boat this deep blue fjord is one of Norways most majestic. Surrounded by peaks that are up to 1100 meters with glaciers and waterfalls, it really is breathtaking.

Norways coast is full of legend, learn about them and you’ll start to see the coastline as magic and myth, not just for its outstanding natural beauty! One of the stories is of two trolls fighting over the land, one fell and his axe created the beautful fjord. The peaks either side are the two sleeping trolls guarding their land. Be careful not to wake them! Another tale is that they were fighting over a lady – a story as old as time!

The pretty Red houses are what you picture when you imagine remote parts of Norway. The reason they are red is it was one of the easiest and cheapest colours to achieve back in the day. The red colour comes from a mix of fish oil, fish blood and turpentine from the trees. Combining these ingredients created the red paint colour to make the houses the bright red colourway.

Floating sauna

The floating sauna is only around £15 per person for an hour session. You can alternate the heated sauna with a dip in the beautiful , clear sea, north of the arctic circle!

There’s a sun deck on top for warm and sunny days. Male and female changing rooms indoors, warm and cold showers outdoors. You must bring your own towel and swimwear is mandatory. You can easily book online. Link below:

http://svinoya.no

Lofotr Viking Museum

Step into the lift of The Vikings and have a fun day doing axe throwing, longboat sailing and archery. Learn some more about The Vikings of the North. Entrance fee 200 Nok.

The midnight sun

Another spectacular thing to see! I went in July so just missed the midnight sun but it still barely drops below the horizon before it rises again so it never gets dark! It can be disconcerting and messes with some people sleep and circadian rhythm! It also means you don’t realise time, it can be disconcerting – constantly thinking it’s about 7pm! It does mean you make the most of your days though!

From Svolvær I carried on up to Tromsø!

Things to do and see in Oslo

Oslo is a great European city to visit with its interesting history, cultural traditions and many museums; what sets it apart from others is its stunning natural beauty!

It has a subway service that can take you to the forest, the lakes or hiking trails – all within the city limits.

A brief history

The town has 1 million residents which has successfully grown throughout its 1000 year history. In 1348 a plague wiped out half the city’s population. In 1624, a fire burned almost the whole of the city to the ground.

King Christian IV decreed the town should be moved west, closer to the protection of Akershus Fortress. The new town was renamed Christiania and laid out with wide streets meeting at right angles, designed to slow down the spread of a fire.

During the 19th century Norway and Sweden were ruled as one kingdom under Karl Johan. The grand Main Street Karl Johans Gate was built and has been the centre of city life since.

In 1905 the country separated from Sweden, and in 1925 the city finally reinstated its name back to Oslo.

Today Oslo is Norway’s political, economic and cultural capital.

It’s an easy city to navigate on foot if you’re happy to walk. It also has a great public transport system. And if you prefer grab an e-scooter along with the masses!

One’s destination is never a place but rather new way of looking at things – Henry Miller

Akershus Fortress

A great place to wander round especially when the weather is good. The building of Akershus castle and fortress commenced in 1299 and the medieval building was completed in the 1300’s. It had a strategic location at the top of the headland and withstood a number of sieges through the ages.

It’s a pleasant walk up to the fortress and free to wander around the grounds. You can pay to go inside should you choose. Obviously being at height gave it a strategic advantage, so the walk to the top is rewarded with great views over the harbour and the city.

There are multiple other places to wander round and architecture to take in, places to stop, people watch, eat and drink.

You can visit The Royal palace, you aren’t able to go inside but it’s a pretty building with beautiful gardens.

To name just a few of the other monuments worth seeing whilest you are out and about: The National theatre, the Cathedral (open to view after 4pm most days), the Library, Eidsvolls pass – a square and park.

A walk around the harbour is another pleasant pastime with a long promenade stretching all the way around, with unique views, interesting architecture and plenty of bars and restaurants. A perfect place for some people watching!

If you fancy a shorter walk just take a section of it, or head inland a little and take the path that snakes around some of the trendiest neighbourhoods!

Vigeland Sculpture Park

Vigeland is the world’s largest sculpture park made by a single artist and is one of Norways most popular tourist attractions. It’s open to visitors all year round and is free to enter. it has over 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943)

Located a half hour walk from the royal palace, through a nice neighbourhood with various options to stop for a coffee or break along the way should you want to break the journey up.

It’s a lovely open space with benches and flowers to stop and admire the sculptures, sit and take it all in or do a bit of people watching! One of my highlights – listening to two older gentleman argue about whether the sundial represented the time correctly!

Vigeland was also responsible for the design and architectural outline of the park.

It has a cafe near the entrance for refreshments. You have to pay to use the toilet – even if you’ve purchased something in the cafe. It was 20 nok at time of writing. It was a boiling hot day when I visited so was very happy to have somewhere to sit in the shade with some cold refreshments!

Museums

There are many musems in Oslo so I will just touch on a couple of highlights but peruse the Visit Oslo page to find others!

The Fram museum – known as the best museum in Norway – came highly recommended to me and for good reason. Experience the history of the Polar Expedition as if you were really there! To get there from central Oslo the boat is much quicker than the bus and a more pleasant way to travel.

The Viking Planet – interactive and using great technology to help you learn more about the Vikings. You;ll experience holograms and interactive screens while you learn!

Restaurants

You are really spoilt for choice in terms of bars and restaurants but one highlight of mine was Sushi bowl. A short walk from Akershus Fortress with fresh sushi perfectly presented!

Getting to Oslo

From the airport taxis tend to be quite expensive around £90 at time of writing.

There is a very efficient train, Flytoget, from Oslo Gardermoen (the closer airport to the city centre) which takes around 20 minutes and costs about £16-17.

You can purchase your tickets at the airport and head straight down to the platform. Announcements are first made in Norwegian and then in English. They even tell you which side of the train you will be exiting!

Seats are comfortable and spacious and there is plenty of space for luggage.

The train station is huge with many shops and multiple exits. You can walk to a lot of hotels from here but there is a taxi rank just outside. As well as train and tram options.

Like most things in Scandinavia, it’s very efficient!

The Practical stuff

I would recommend not taking cash, hardly anyone uses it or accepts it. As usual I’ve found a Starling bank card to be the most useful card whilst travelling to minimise fees and maximise exchange rates.

http://starlingbank.com

Tap water is safe to drink virtually everywhere.

From here I headed up to Trondheim on the train – a stunning place also well worth a visit!

Wine tasting in Mendoza

Regardless of if you are a lover of Malbec you’d be hard pushed not to enjoy some wine tasting in Mendoza! My day started with wine for breakfast at around 9.30am – what a way to start a holiday!

The Andes make a stunning backdrop to enjoy the wine tasting at Kaiken in Mendoza!

Adventure awaits those willing to take a chance and live life to the fullest
Anonymous

Mendoza was founded in 1561 with a very small native population. It has a strategic position at the crossing from two main roads in Argentina, from North to South and across from Buenos Aires to Chile. The Spanish wanted access to the resources such as cereals they distributed the lands and administered the area.

Mendoza is in the middle of the desert so a complex water distribution system had to be created for home distribution and irrigation of plants and crops. Channels feed from the river to a huge canal network. Different areas get water access on different days. During Winter this might be once every 2 weeks or once a month; whilst in Summer its more like once a week. The system is very heavily regulated and if you take more water than your entitlement you can be fined or go to jail.

Until the 1990’s Mendoza produced 70% of the countries olive oil, until the Government got involved to support some of the poorer areas in the North. Mendoza is still considered to have the best quality olive oil, I can verify that it is delicious!

Unlike some other wine producing countries the best quality vines are not always kept back for the country to enjoy as some of the locals can’t afford it, and wine from Mendoza has such a good reputation around the world.

I visited two local vinyards, details below but the choice is plentiful. There are multiple options for booking tours to visit several vinyards in a day or afternoon. You can also just turn up for a tour at many of them, or hire bikes and cycle between some of them.

Kaiken

My favourite vinyard and where the Religion of Malbec was born!

The story goes that the owner was involved in a car crash and believed he was dying. He saw an angel and believes he is still alive because of her. This was nearby to the vineyard.

On site there is an angel cellar 4 metres underground. You have to ring the chimes as you enter and it’s believed positive energy attracts positive energy.

In the room where the barrels of Malbec are stored to mature there are hymns playing – like in a church. It’s monks chanting thanks, which creates a unique atmosphere. The noise makes small vibrations, causing gentle movements inside the barrels. The particles are constantly moving which is what makes the Malbec so smooth and velvety.

It genuinely felt like a special place, the experience was almost like visiting a church whilst wandering around the vineyard and seeing how they produce the wine. Hence the religion of Malbec was born!

As expected Kaiken produce a beautiful Malbec with intense colour and taste. They also produce a number of other delicious wines, a good Cabernet franc and a Merlot blend. The tannin’s are soft and a pleasure on the palate! The mix of blends vary each year depending on the crops, weather, soils and everything that impacts taste and production.

They also have some interesting wine labels!

One of my favourite labels! The wine wasn’t bad either!

Alta Vista wines

Alta Vista meaning high view or best view. It was first formed by Spanish users in the late 1890s. In time the owners needed to return to Spain so abandoned the vineyard which was later found by a French owner. Abandoned and destroyed they worked hard to restore the plot. Their speciality was champagne and agriculture. They wanted to take 7 different vines and combine to form a specialist production.

Different levels above sea and varying degrees of sun and radiation create a plethora of different vines and grapes. Salt and calcium levels in the soil also have an impact. El Niño has further complicated the process.

Alta Vista use Galileo spheres which reduces the need for manual intervention. The patent for the spheres has since been sold to European vineyards.

A lot of delicious reds are produced here, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc and Pinot Noir. The reds are stored for 18-24 months. During the storing process they are tasted once a month which determines what the mix is for the blended wines.

White wine production is smaller, some Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and the local Torrentes which is predominantly sold locally. Torrentes means the liar due to it smelling sweet like fruit but with a drier taste.

Sparkling wine is also produced on site. The process involves having the bottles pointing downwards for 20 months. They are rotated one quarter of a turn three times a week during that time to ensure movement of the yeast sediment which forms at the bottom of the bottle.

There are many more vineyards in Mendoza to choose from and I can’t recommend it as a place to visit highly enough.

There is also plenty more to see and do whilst visiting. One of my favourites being the Spanish square. Wherever you wonder through town there are local wine shops selling great quality wine at very cheap prices.

Cafayate

Cafayete is another place further north in Argentina with a breath of choice of vineyards. The wines taste very different due to the varying climates and geology. Cafayete is not far from Salta which is around 1800m above sea level, whereas Mendoza sits approximately 1200m above sea level. The climate is warmer in Cafayete with somewhere in the region of 340 days of sun a year. Mendoza is more humid with rain and snow during winter so different flavours, textures and tannins are produced.

A couple of contrasting vineyards to try: Bodega El Porvenir, in the 1890s was a small family run vineyard. It has since been bought and now produces high end wine but has that family run feel.

A great place to enjoy the wine at Bodega El Porvenir!

Piattelli Vineyard is a much larger more industrial and less personal affair. Though interesting to see the scale with a large choice of wines available, in a picturesque setting.

The beautiful setting for some wine tasting at Piattelli vineyard

Either way, you just can’t fail to find some outstanding wines throughout Argentina!

On a final note here’s a delicious bottle I paid a little over 2 dollars for in Salta and was very good – I picked it for the label and it was thoroughly enjoyable!

Landscapes of Argentina

There are not enough suitable adjectives to describe the spectacular landscapes of Argentina. There’s so much diversity as you move from one area to another each offering jaw-droppingly beautiful sights.

Time spent outdoors reminds us that we’re part of something larger: a beautiful universe brimming with possibilities.
Unknown author

My photos demonstrate stunning scenery (at least I think so!), but they don’t do these landscapes justice such is the outstanding natural beauty of Argentina.

The heaviest snowfall in 20 years at Aconcagua! Meant we couldn’t do much walking but the views were stunning!

My road trip covered over 3000km starting in Mendoza – obviously had to enjoy the wine as well as the landscapes – then heading North, whilst taking in Aconcagua. Then onto Barreal, Villa Union and Belen. I visited Talampaya and Ischigualasto national parks. Unfortunately the observatory at El Leoncito changed opening days so was closed but we managed a little stargazing anyway.

A couple from a beautiful morning walk in Talampaya National park

Then on to Cafayete for a few more Bodegas, Cachi for a bit more stargazing. Also stopping at Quilmes indigenous ruins, Broken arrow gorge and The Cardones National park.

From the top of one of the climbs in Quilmes Indigenous ruins

Some of the cactai are over 1000 years old

Before continuing on to Salta and visiting Humahuaca gorge. Then finally flying down to Buenos Aires for the last few days.

I managed to cover a significant chunk of Ruta 40, the Latin American equivalent of North America’s Route 66. Though in totality it’s over 5000km in length, running from Santa Cruz province in the South almost as far as Bolivia.

The famous stop at the 4040km point on Ruta 40! Some of the route is from old Inca roads which are perfectly straight

Still to cover on another trip is Patagonia. And I also can’t recommend Iguazu falls highly enough. I popped over to the Argentinian side on a previous tour of Brazil. Both sides are sensational in different ways.

Separate post on wine tasting in Argentina to follow!

Stargazing from the cemetery in Cachi – a little walk out of town so limited uplight – not bad for an iPhone shot!

Hope you enjoy the photos & scenery! The hardest thing was choosing so few to show here!

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And feel free to ask me any questions when considering or planning a trip to Argentina or anywhere else I can help with!

Beautiful cactus flower in one of the old villages

Happy travelling and stay safe!

Day trip to Colonia Uruguay

If you’re in Buenos Aires a day trip to Colonia is a lovely way to spend one of your days, enjoy the quaint old town look and feel of Colonia, and tick another country off your list!

Traditional tiles create lovely historic images on the old walls that surround the city

How to get there

You can get the ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia de Sacramento. At time of writing the route sails 8 times a day and is run by 2 different shipping companies Buquebus and Colonia Express. It takes approximately 1 hour 15 minutes.

They leave from different points in Buenos Aires so check which one is convenient relative to the location of your hotel or accommodation. You can easily purchase tickets online.

Bear in mind you are changing countries so arrive around 1.5 before your departure to allow time for check in and security. And of course don’t forget your passport – apparently this is more common than you might think!

Colonia de Sacramento

Colonia de Sacramento is one of the oldest towns in Uruguay, the historic quarter – a short walk from where you get off the ferry – is a UNESCO world heritage site.

The historic quarter is beautiful and you enter through an old traditional gateway and wooden drawbridge. It has cobblestone streets built in the 17th century by the Portuguese and many attractions around the Plaza Mayor (main square). You can feel the history as you walk around.

The gateway to enter the historic quarter

Some of the lighthouses and museums close in the afternoon so it’s best to tick off any of these that you’d like to visit in the morning then you have time to relax, wander, eat, drink and shop.

I recommend going up the lighthouse for the panoramic view of the city at the top. It’s also one of the most picturesque attractions. The lighthouse was built in 1855 amidst the ruins of a convent. The two structures blend together to create a beautiful scene.

It’s a small fee of 50 pesos. You can pay Dollars, Euros or Pesos, any change will be given in Pesos. There may be a line to enter as only 8 people at a time can go in so another reason to head there early. I went at the end of September and it was very breezy at the top!

As you can imagine some of the tourist shops are overpriced but if you find something you like most take card payments to save you changing cash if you are only visiting for the day. Be sure to check fees first. As always I recommend a Starling bank card for this reason.

https://www.starlingbank.com/

There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from who are ready for the day trippers who stop for lunch. Whilst wandering around on arrival I spotted an old man making what looked like a great paella so I headed back there later for my lunch and it was not only delicious but I think the best paella I’ve ever eaten! The wine wasn’t bad either and they had a fire going which was perfect having been walking around town.

A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions.
Oliver Wendell Holmes

A few more photos of this lovely old city. A great place to visit for a few hours!

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A map of the old town in traditional tiles

What to see in Petra

Petra – the stunning ancient city in Southern Jordan, half hidden in the wind blown landscape; voted as one of the ‘New Seven Wonders of the World.’ Petra is of the worlds most treasured Unesco Heritage Sites, and most famous archaeological sites. The word Petra means pink city, and is derived from the Greek word Petros meaning rocks. When you see it in early morning or evening light you can see why its often referred to as The Rose City.

Petra is a must visit whilst in Jordan. Fair to say it’s the leading highlight of a country blessed with more than it’s fair share of top sights.

The walk in through The Siq (pronounced ‘Seek’) is amazing in itself stretching for around 1km, but nothing prepares you for the site of the treasury peering through the rocks! It’s remarkable, an ancient city carved into the sandstone rock. The once lavish city fell into obscurity, hidden for centuries until it was uncovered by a Swiss explorer in the early 1800’s.

One of the reasons that Petra was declared as one of The Seven wonders of world is apparently due to the use of Juniper wood that was used in the foundations of the structures to act as shock absorbers, to protect them from collapse during earthquakes which can be quite common. UNESCO described the site as ‘one of the most precious cultural properties of mans cultural heritage’. It is also known for its innovative water management system, which made the area inhabitable.

And of course famed for being part of the set in The Last Crusade, where Indiana Jones searches for The Holy Grail. What better setting than a real location called ‘The Treasury.’ Now a popular tourist attraction ‘The Al Khazneh’ is a giant, ornately carved sandstone temple facade, dating back to the first century AD. The Mummy Returns was also filmed there.

Only 13% of Petra is uncovered, the rest remains below ground and still unexcavated so one can only imagine what it must have looked like in its full glory.

Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.
Mahatma Gandhi

History

The city of Petra was established as a trading post by the Nabateans, an Arab Bedouin tribe indigenous to the region which is now South West Jordan. They accumulated a huge amount of wealth and an envious Greek Empire attacked in 312 BC. The Nabateans successfully fought back using the advantage of the mountainous terrain which served as a natural wall.

The Romans later successfully attacked in 106 AD and ultimately forced The Nabateans to surrender. They ruled for some 250 years until an earthquake destroyed many of its buildings. Eventually The Byzantines took over for a period of 300 years.

By the early 8th century Petra was largely abandoned and no longer significant politically or culturally. It has always been noted by historians and archaeologists though for its unique architecture and innovation made by the Nabatean Bedouins that established the city.

Given its rugged and mountainous terrain it wasn’t a logical place to build a city. However, the Nabateans took advantage of the geography as they erected its key structures.

The Nabateans literally carved the key buildings out of the stone surfaces. As its pre-dominantly sandstone its a relatively soft rock to cut into. Later the Romans and Byzantines wanted to leave their own marks on the city and it began to take on a mix of the different cultures that occupied it.

Walks and trails

There are many choices of places to walk, in fact you could spend days wandering around Petra. Whilst The Treasury is stunning, for me the Monastery was more impressive, and worth the hike up to view it. The view looking down on ‘Ad Deir’ is amazing, plus there’s a bar at the top!

The monastery is one of the largest monuments in Petra measuring 47m wide by just over 48m high. It dates back to the earliest 2nd century AD. It was initially used as a meeting place for religious associations. And later the hall was re-used as a Christian chapel, crosses were carved into the rear wall hence how the structure got its name.

The High Place of Sacrifice is another popular trail. It’s a place of worship on a plateau on the mountain. You can reach it by climbing rock cut steps to the top where you will be rewarded by spectacular views of the ancient city below, and of the wider area. The High Place was used for important religious ceremonies.

The Royal Tombs are also worth a visit if you have time. It contains 4 magnificent facades adjacent to each other. You can combine a visit to both these and The High Place of sacrifice in one afternoon.

There are many other choices but these 3 are the most popular walks – I’d say the view down on The Monastery was one of the highlights of my whole time in Jordan so do walk up there if you can!

Food and drink

There are two main places for lunch once you’re at the centre. I’d recommend the Bedouin tent which offers local food. You can get a buffet lunch for 12 dinars, or they offer shawarma if you want something cheaper or lighter.

The gates open at 6am and close at 7pm in summer and 5pm in winter. I stayed in hotel Edom, great location just a couple of minutes walk to the gates of Petra.

There are some nice restaurants locally, I’d recommend Sandstone though some of the mixed grill / kebab dishes the meat were a little dry. But opt for the local dishes, stews etc and most of them are delicious. It’s also one of the few restaurants in town that does serve alcohol! Though if you sit outside prepare to drink your wine out of a mug as they deliver you a ‘cappuccino’, whilst they are respectful of the local culture.

My Mom’s recipe is another great choice, whilst I would never normally opt for a restaurant with a name like this, it came recommended and does have delicious dishes with a lovely roof terrace. All the local dishes were lovely and in my opinion nicer food than Sandstone, but it doesn’t serve alcohol so depends where your priorities lie but I would say its worth a visit for the food.

Petra by night

Absolutely worth the money to see Petra by night and experience it from a different perspective. You get to walk down The Siq by candlelight, see The Treasury lit up and enjoy local music.

The view is outstanding with candles everywhere lighting the way it adds to the magic. It’s an amazing experience just to sit and enjoy the lights and music and soak it all up.

Tickets are around 17 dinars, it’s worth buying your tickets earlier in the day to avoid queuing at the gate as it gets busy. The price includes a complimentary cup of local tea.

Little Petra

If you have the time Little Petra is also worth a visit. I cycled there from Petra which was tough and the uphill felt a little relentless at times! But was worth the effort!

Also known as Siq al-Barad meaning ‘The Cold Canyon’. As its name suggests it is a much smaller version of Petra, though its free to enter and usually quieter than Petra so worth a visit whilst you’re there.

It was probably built during the height of The Nabatean influence in the 1st century. Whilst the purpose isn’t entirely clear, its believed it was a suburb of Petra, meant to house visiting traders on the Silk Road.

Other Jordan highlights

For more information on Jordan and places to visit other than Petra see my Jordan post. https://mysolofootprints.com/2022/11/03/jordan-highlights/

There are so many other highlights all worth seeing in this beautiful country and I will definitely return one day!